Published on Jul, 2018
The Isha Yoga center is located at the foot of the Velliangiri Hills on the outskirts of Coimbatore (approx. 30 kms from Coimbatore Railway Junction and 35 kms from the airport). With the steady growth of the Isha Foundation over the past 25 years or so, this Ashram has loomed larger in the public consciousness, peaking in 2017 with the opening of the Adiyogi statue and the Rally for Rivers campaign by its founder-figurehead Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev. With all this in my mind, I was naturally excited to be visiting the place for the first time in the company of my wife, sister and parents.
The road to Isha Yoga Center is well-laid and smooth given that it ultimately peters out and isn't part of a larger NH network. There are clear signboards on the way and it is hard to miss the right turn off the main road that leads to Isha. After journeying for 5-10 minutes through narrow roads, one eventually reaches a vast clearing. Here, the vision that led to the establishment of this place manifests itself. It is meant to be a communion with nature through the sylvan surroundings of the Velliangiri Hills. This canvas provides the setting for the gigantic sculpture of the bust of Shiva, cast as the Adiyogi (primeval Yogi). One can drive upto around 300-500 m from the sculpture and then it's a short walk from there.
An alfresco, all-black beauty, the Adiyogi sculpture has a sacred temple-like space close to its foot where we encountered live chanting in addition to the recorded chanting of Sadhguru. This is an appropriate initiation purely from an experience standpoint regardless of one's religious or spiritual orientation. The sculpture, at 112 feet, is now the largest of its kind (Guinness World Record for world's largest bust sculpture) and as such is a towering prospect at close quarters. It needs to be gazed at from different angles and perspectives to truly get a sense of its monumental nature. What registered with me above all was the artist's rendering of the eyes: half-open, half-closed in a meditative trance-like state! It is likely to be my enduring memory from the visit.
The sculpture is only the beginning of the experience trail here though. Having walked around in awe, we then proceeded to the actual Isha Yoga Center. It is a 7 min walk (as the signboards say) or one can partake of a curiously designed experience that simulates a bullock cart ride although neither the vehicle being pulled nor the manner in which one is seated actually resemble a bullock cart ride. It is the sort of superficial gimmick that I saw in Europe quite a bit (eg. pilgrim's ride at Mont St Michel) and one may either wince at it or acknowledge the enterprising thought that led to it. At Rs. 10 (one way), price is hardly a consideration.
Isha Yoga Center is a much larger affair with a towering fence lining the perimeter and a grand entrance that evokes the snake motif used liberally here. The premises inside are beautifully landscaped with stone being the key material of construction. The Linga Bhairavi and the Dhyana Linga register as distinctive experiences, especially the latter with its cavernous circular chamber in which complete silence is observed. There are private meditation spaces scooped out from the perimeter of this chamber. It is an immensely fulfilling experience to find one, get seated in siddhasana or ardha-siddhasana and meditate.
There is a retail outlet selling Isha's array of organic foods, books, CDs and other artefacts. I'd like to have seen their clothing line on display though. There is also a restaurant by the name of Moondrampirai at the entrance of the Isha Yoga center which serves good South Indian fare (dosa, idli, puri, biryani etc) on a self-serve basis. It is a basic, no-frills affair.
PS - Public transport to the Isha Yoga center is in the form of Bus 14D from Gandhipuram Bus Stand in Coimbatore.
