Published on Nov, 2024
BEKA - we visited at the end of September.
The homestay has been created in a beautiful garden setting, it was simple and modest but comfy and clean. Blissfully silent. The bathroom was an "all in one" ie the shower hose was beside the toilet/basin, not in a separate stall so danger of saturating the toilet paper if untrained !! Food was simple yet very tasty, everyone is served together at long tables (there were only 2 other guests, Australians!). Ran your own bar tab from the fridge and finalised at end of stay. Instantly relaxing, just being there.
Typhoon damage to the island was evident everywhere, esp Cat Ba township, v sad. To the casual visitor damage to the forest was only evident when you tried to walk in it, trees down everywhere but the wide vista scene, the hillsides and the karsts, still appeared green to visitors. The clean up was done remarkably quickly throughout the region with little debris in water.
The tours were great, especially with the insights offered by Thang our guide: walking through the little village was very pleasant. Unfortunately the Peak hike was not accessible due to the cyclone damage, instead we enjoyed a walk out to a cave and lookout. The night kayaking was such a buzz, the bioluminescence in the water like stars trailing through the sky, mesmerising. We all felt we had Harry Potter wands! Also a very special experience, being out in the pitch dark in a kayak (we were paddling 2 up). Other highlight activities on the boat day trip : swimming through caves, jumping off the boat, lots of fun. The scenery itself is awe inspiring and these bays are far less touristy, boat wise.
We exchanged the 2nd night of our homestay for a night on a different, small cruise boat which was quickly organised for us by Thang for a few extra $$, just so we could enjoy more of the bays and the towering karsts. It was very relaxing. Only 4 other people on that boat with us. Very pleasant, excellent food, attentive staff. We moored away from other boats so, again, a quiet still night.
I would happily recommend this 3 days /2 night BEKA experience for people who are active, happy with modest digs (who laugh at wet toilet paper events), who enjoy being off the beaten track and exploring, plus content with 2-3 stars accommodation (ie the homestay). If you need a proper shower stall, and a la carte menus this may not be for you. Our friend in her late 70’s did all but the kayaking (but still came along in a little boat, once again organised by the thoughtful Thang) , she had a blast. The 3 of us loved it.
Special thanks to our young guide, Thang. He was really terrific: quietly efficient with a gentle humour, spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable. He looked out for us at every step, always confirming next day activities and times. He made sure all members of our party could still join in the spirit of each activity even if not the specific activity (ie night kayaking, cave kayaking) so they didn't miss out.
Pick up and drop off to Hanoi went very smoothly with the Beka staff confirming all arrangements prior and were always ready waiting for us. I would not hesitate to do it again, it was that enjoyable.
